Sunday, September 30, 2012

A Boring Country?



A boring country?

Belgium undoubtedly has an image problem:  art limited to dreary old oil-paintings; buildings full of faceless Eurocrats; and cuisine peaking at moules-frites!

Certainly when my brother’s family relocated to Brussels last month, I had some doubts - but I also saw it as a fantastic opportunity for the kids to learn a new language and culture, and a smart career move for the parents to where the real power lies.  Plus it’s a fun new place for us relatives to visit – including what remains for me the thrilling, baffling concept of going under the sea in a train.  Maybe the Belgian capital has been sadly underrated? 

Art, far from being absent, was there in abundance:  from the traditional equine statues and fulsome nudes, to more contemporary stuff – the well-known Magritte, Tintin and Brel, but also rope sculptures, graffiti-art and playfully-decorated oversized sprouts!  There are also dozens of museums, though this time we only managed those dedicated to flight and musical instruments – mainly to eat and admire the views!

Buildings are also surprisingly varied.  Whilst it’s no Gaudi-inspired Barcelona, there are plenty of impressive examples of art nouveau architecture.  Even the glass and steel modernism of the European Parliament is impressive in its own way - not the grandeur of Westminster, but what it lacks in style it makes up for in influence...  And as for the Grand Place, this is surely one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, up there with Sienna and Krakow - and must be breathtaking when carpeted with flowers every other August.   

Cuisine, too, was a pleasant surprise – we would have avoided mussels anyway, even before learning that their favourite food is poo, but had lovely fresh waffles in the park, and delicious Leffe and Kriek beers at lunchtime (the latter was crisp and tasty, nothing like the recent trend in sweetly artificial fruit-flavoured beers).  And, unlike their Gallic neighbours, the Belgians offered decent veggie food – even when I thought I’d played it safe with a lasagne I actually got layer upon succulent layer of mouth-watering spinach and pasta.  As for dessert – what could beat Belgian chocolate?

Anyone can criticise.  But don’t believe all you hear.  Contemporary Brussels offers a positive ABC of Art, Buildings and Cuisine – this is certainly not A Boring Country!

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